For field technicians • April 2026
Look at the pressure regulator, filter station, or valve manifold near the block. Many have a small threaded plug or Schrader valve (looks like a tire valve). If you find one: unscrew the plug, thread in a brass adapter, connect pswitch. Done. 2 minutes.
Pick the one that matches. Tap/click for instructions.
Two drip lines along the same tree row, controlled by different valves/zones. One pswitch detects irrigation on either or both lines. Check valves stop water from the active line backfeeding into the idle one.
Check valves let pressure through to the pswitch but block cross-flow between lines.
Each check valve is a one-way gate. Water pressure passes from the drip line toward the pswitch, but can't flow backwards. When Zone 1 runs, its pressure reaches the pswitch while the check valve on Zone 2 stays shut — no water backfeeds into the idle line. Vice versa. If both zones run simultaneously, both valves open and the pswitch sees pressure from both.
You need 1/4" OD push-to-connect inline check valves — the kind used for reverse osmosis water filtration. They grip standard 1/4" irrigation micro-tubing by the outside diameter. Just push the tubing in, done. No clamps, no Teflon, no tools.
Push 4 pieces of pre-cut 1/4" tubing into 2 check valves and 1 barb tee to form a Y-shape: two open tubing ends on one side (will connect to each drip line's 17mm tee), one open branch on the other (will connect to pswitch). Bag the whole assembly as "Dual-Line Kit." In the field: connect the two tubing ends to the 17mm tees, push pswitch onto the branch, done.
Tee both drip lines together without check valves. Active zone backfeeds into idle zone.
Check valve on each line, arrows toward pswitch. Pressure passes through, water doesn't cross.
Check valve arrow pointing toward the drip line. Blocks all pressure — pswitch never triggers.
Arrow points away from drip line, toward pswitch. If neither zone triggers, pull valves and flip them.
Pack ONE tool bag with everything. Grab it for every install. No need to plan which connection type — all 5 fittings + tools in one bag, figure it out on-site.
1. Pre-cut 1/4" tubing into 12" pieces (20+). 2. Pre-assemble saddle adapters (1/2" FPT → barb + Teflon). Bag as "Saddle Adapter." 3. Pre-assemble PVC reducer chains (3/4" → 1/2" → 1/4" NPT → barb + Teflon). Bag as "PVC Adapter." 4. Pre-assemble dual-line kits (2 check valves + barb tee + 4 tubing pieces in Y-shape). Bag as "Dual-Line Kit." 5. Label fittings #1–#6 in the bag.
Barb on the bottom of the pipe. Sediment clogs it within weeks.
Barb on top (12 o'clock). Gravity keeps sediment away.
Cable draped loose across the row. Tractor rips it out on the first pass.
Zip-tie every 12-18" along pipe, then up the trunk. Nothing hanging.
No Teflon tape on NPT threads. Slow leak → adapter works loose → pswitch fails.
3-5 wraps of Teflon, clockwise when looking at the thread end. Snug with wrench, don't gorilla it.
Pswitch reads ON but there's no water flowing. Assume it's broken.
Air trapped in the port can hold enough pressure to trigger 5 PSI. Bleed the port: disconnect pswitch, let air escape, reconnect. Common after first install.
Punched into drip tape (thin-wall). Tape tears, leaks, can't hold barb.
Drip tape too thin. Go upstream to the header pipe, use Connection #3 or #4.
Dug up buried dripline to install pswitch. System damaged, nearly impossible to repair.
Tap the above-ground manifold or flush valve (Connection #5). Same pressure signal.
Quantities for 10 installs of each type (~50 total installs) plus 5 dual-line installs. ~$614.